Coral stocking for the Newbie Saltwater enthusiast

Most people when newly starting in the saltwater side of fish keeping often originally find themselves attracted to it by the beauty and variety of a well stocked reef. There are few sights more appealing than the combination of colour that corals and the fish living harmoniously within that vivaciously symbiotic environment. 

Unfortunately though, given the myriad choices and possibilities, the newbie saltwater aquarist will more often than not get absolutely overwhelmed when it comes to   the selection of corals, and will usually have an easier time choosing fish than the corals themselves, overlooking the fact that the proper selection of corals is as crucially important to the balance of a saltwater aquarium, if not more so. Many species of corals will aggressively seek out external food sources, which can be harmful to fish, and to other more peaceful coralline counterparts. However I have found from experience that looking for specific suggestions for good beginner choices can be a bit like pulling arms from an experienced aquarist, due to the vast variety of available species, colours, feeding patterns, personal preferences, and compatibility factors of some of the species, and so on.

Given that corals come in various degrees of needs requirements, I have put together a list of choices that are generally known to be easy to care for, with minimum nutritional and lighting needs and that can be easily chosen from by the beginner reefist   It is to be noted however, that corals, being much more fragile to water fluctuations than fish, should be added only after a tank has achieved proper stability. I have heard it say that the opposite is also true, but to say the least, it is risky to stock an immature tank with corals before the bioload of the fish and cleanup crews is balanced out. A rise in ammonia from a newly introduced fish could well cause the demise of  certain more sensitive corals which would further unbalance the water parameters, causing a chain fire reaction that could very well unravel itself into having to start from scratch and at the very least make it an expensive undertaking the second time around. And for that reason, it is recommended to wait for a period of roughly 6 months to a year after the tank is established or mature, before beginning the addition of those oh so very colourful organisms that so well represent the symbiotic elements of life.

Usually, the level of required care for corals will largely depend on their own innate ability to fend for themselves. Low maintenance specimens will more often than not have a rather aggressive edge in seeking out food source, often via extendable tentacles, that may harm some livestock whether it be fish or coralline, and despite a large number of them sustaining themselves largely upon the symbiotic algae zooxanthellae, created within the photosynthesis process, many will also require an external food source, generally small to microscopic invertebrates or suspended organics. All this to say take very much care in selecting semi-aggressive to aggressive corals, which are better chosen carefully, and hopefully kept to a minimal amount and provide enough spacing between specimens to avoid them harming each other.

 Mushrooms

Most mushrooms being semi aggressive, they must be kept somewhat distant from other corals and invertebrates since they will harm them causing stock loss or bleaching. Great  for beginner salt aquarist, they require minimal lighting (best provided by power compact or VHO fluorescent) and care requirements, will be best placed closer to the tank bottom  when high lighting levels are present or the mushrooms  will otherwise bleach and burn (some exceptions apply). Mushroom nutritional requirements will depend on their symbiotic algae which they produce from their photosynthesis process, very much like the higher maintenance invertebrate the anemone, though mushrooms will carry out this process at a drastically lower light level. They also will benefit from a relatively meaty diet of zooplankton, brine shrimp, and other meaty foods leftover by carnivorous fish with less than perfect table manners, making mushrooms a rather helpful mechanical filtering agent.

Some good beginner choices for mushrooms with a high propagating rate.

?         Rhodactis inchoata (Bulls eye Mushroom, green fluorescent mushroom, purple mushroom, many colour variants.

?         Rhodactis, or elephant eared mushroom, will grow quite large and though it will thrive on its photosynthesis based algae, it may also eat bacteria.

?         Actinodiscus sp (Red Mushroom, Spotted mushroom, Blue Mushroom and many more colour and shape variants) relatively the same care as above.

?         Aplexidiscus spp (giant cup mushrooms . that may come in varying colours, easy maintenance with fairly low lighting requirements as well, but will wrap themselves around fish when brushed, and then proceed to digest the vertebrate. Great addition to a reef only but high risk to fish if choosing to stock them along with this particular mushroom.

Other good beginner choices

Since corals come in a few categories, with varying degrees of care or difficulty within each, the rule of thumb that beginners generally will hear, seems to be mostly set between hard and soft corals, hard corals being considered the higher difficulty level of care and requirement. However hard corals do come in two categories, being LPS or Large Polyp Stone, or SPS, Small Polyp Stone.   LPS corals usually require lower light levels and overly sensitive to the more intense lighting systems like metal halides.

 Though more often than not of a semi aggressive nature with extending  tentacles (mostly nocturnal phenomenon) and preferring  a meatier diet, they are  generally best off placed from mid  to  low level on the reef.  There are also more peaceful specimens that while still requiring a meaty diet, are more adaptable to placements and therefore can be separated from their more aggressive counterparts via varying heights of placement.

Good beginner LPS corals-choose with care

?         Trachyphyllia (brain corals), are semi aggressive, and come in many beautiful and colourful choices as well as some that are metallic appearance such as the Trachyphyllia Radiata. It is a moderate light requiring hard coral that will prefer a bottom placement, particularly in a well lit tank and prefers to attach itself to the substrate. Better only introduce them in well established tanks but an excellent choice for novices with a hankering for brighter and shapely specimens. They do require occasional feedings of meaty foods or leftovers of messy eating fish.

?         Favites spp. (different family of brain corals) and more particularly the pineapple brain coral are still within the easy range care level. Will require moderate lighting and do well at either placement in the tank, from low to high, making it an accommodating coral for many, depending on their base lighting level. Dietary requirements will come mainly from meaty diet fed less frequently than mushrooms, say 2 to 3 times weekly. They are however aggressive, and will nocturnally attack other stock via tentacles expanding form their base, which is why it is best to feed them when such activity is witnessed to reduce the aggressively towards other livestock. Some in the Favites group have much finer requirements and so the importance of selecting the hardier species comes into play, but the availability of the more tolerant species makes it easy to find good beginner specimens.

?         Platygyra sp. (brain worm) still within the brain coral forms, will display the need to feed via its tentacles, displayed nocturnally as well.  Care must be taken not to place any peaceful corals within its reach, and it also will apparently produce a certain amount of mucus so more scrupulous water changes may be needed when stocking this organism. However it is hardy and will be content with any level of placement in the tank, provided the lighting does not prove overly intense or it will risk suffering from burns and bleaching.

?         Cynarina sp. (button coral) same LPS variety , this one is a peaceful and beautiful  choice, that may expand quite large so pruning may be necessary,  and needs a meaty diet but it apparently best take care of it’s nutritional needs at night where it is to be assumed that it will come out of it’s dormant stage. Will thrive in moderate to high lighting, and best placed mid level in a reef rather than bottom or top where it could either receive insufficient or too intense lighting.

?         Scolymia sp. (button coral, also known as disk coral, LPS) is a slightly more aggressive than the previously mentioned Cynarina sp,  and will inform it’s hunger via tentacles as well, but very easy to maintain preferring a lower placement in an aquarium and requires a meaty diet. Many colour variations may be found with this specimen.

?         Caulastrea furcata (candy cane coral) Easy maintenance as well though will prefer it’s lighting in the mid range is a peaceful but beautifully coloured LPS coral. It is a sturdy choice that will usually not come out the worse for wear in minimal fluctuations, good for establishing a good balance towards the beginning of the life of a reef. Displays tentacles as well but their main use being to find food in the form of small meaty invertebrates (brine shrimp).

?         Caulastrea curvata (trumpet coral) will come in different colours as well but the most striking being the fluorescent green variety. It is peaceful and has moderate lighting requirements, and it is quite rather hardy. It is preferred to avoid metal halides with this specimen however and to place it low in the tank at first if intense lighting is used,  allowing it a long period of light acclimation over a few weeks, and gradually moving it higher to a more desirable place of your choice.

Polyps

Most polyps will generally be classed as semi aggressive and though a few will be classed high requirements, and so only recommended to experienced keepers,  generally it is easy to find a selection of easy maintenance, high dwelling species, with moderate to high lighting requirements. They also will obtain their main food source from photosynthesis dependant algae, but like the other corals can also benefit from an external source of meaty foods in their diet. Like any other corals, some research should always be done when considering purchasing, in order to establish the necessary trace elements required in order for them to thrive. Certain corals will require higher calcium levels, while others will show a need for stronger traces of Iodine (which most polyps actually demand). Research is the key once you have an idea of what it is you want.

?         Pachyclavularia sp (starburst polyp-many varieties) is a higher lighting requiring polyp. Peaceful, it benefits more form being placed higher on the reef system away from their not so docile tank mates. They can be acquired in a few varieties of colour and have a lot of appeal for beginner to expert. They prefer strong currents but are still easy maintenance.

?         Zoanthus sp (colony polyp) come in many varieties as well, some with slightly different requirements, and different physical characteristics. However their colouration leaves room for a wide choice and assortment, varying in placement form mid to high level offering good options for mixing.

?         Xenia sp. (Pumping xenia, silver branch) as well will vary in specifics and colouration but are generally quite peaceful, with moderate light preferences, and best stocked on the bottom. 

?         Clavularia sp. (clove polyp or encrusted polyp) is another that is very bushy and flowing in appearance, ranging in colours from the earthy to more eye catching pinks and greens. Semi aggressive, they are easy maintenance and grow quite fast, propagating themselves by encrusting themselves over the rockwork and sometimes over other less defensive corals, so some kind of pruning and care of it’s neighbours are necessary. They are preferably stocked closer to the top, their photosynthesis process requiring slightly stronger light than moderate.

Soft Corals

Generally much easier to maintain than SPS (small polyped stone) corals, they still have a relatively high lighting requirement and so should usually be placed higher on a reef. Due to their semi aggressivity, they are generally considered easy to keep provided the right trace amounts are made available.

?         Capnella sp. (Kenya  Tree Coral or Tree Leather) Is a mid rate to higher light requirement specimen, of beautiful conformation, can grow to great size so it is best if left room to expand, and though it does effect some form of photosynthesis , it is much more dependant on outside food sources of dissolved organics and micro plankton.  Still a very easy coral to care for and great addition to any tank.

?         Sarcophyton sp. (toadstool mushroom, normally green) though a mushroom,It is also considered a leather (or soft coral) and one of the few mushrooms that will prefer being higher set in the tank due to it’s higher light requirements. Since it is peaceful in nature, it is preferable to keep more aggressive organisms away from it. But in itself, it is an easy specimen to keep alive,as like most mushrooms,it will provide most of its own food through photosynthesis.

?         Tubipora musica (pipe organ coral or daisy coral) is a slightly more fragile coral that requires a bit more experience from the aquarist. Reminiscent of a beautiful ball of small daisies, from which one of it‘s common name obviously originates. It is a peaceful coral that will thrive from bottom to top placement  on the reef, provided that it’s light requirements, which are from moderate to high, are met, and that it is not in too strong a current, which could have a destructive force on it‘s outer structure. It is indeed a soft coral, though sometimes is considered a hard coral because of its internal structure, and is a benefit in the way that it will not overcrowd other livestock in its propagation.

All in all, with a bit of research and patience, it is indeed possible for the beginner saltwater keeper to have a thriving tank full of colourful life forms and to make choices that will involve the least amount of risk without feeling overwhelmed by the options available. Many of the corals I have previously listed are also highly available to the market through aquaculture, which is an environmentally responsible choice, helping preserving our oceans and natural reefs around the world. Personal research and a slow approach is always of prime importance, and a highly preferable approach to a more impulsive one, a healthier and stable tank for a long time to come. Due to the acclimating requirements of those particular tank additions, it is recommended not to add corals any more often than two or three new specimens a month.  Being aware of  their nutritional needs as well as essential trace elements required to sustain a healthy  metabolism is also crucial, as well as helpful in order to  avoid incompatibility in stocking (due to the presence of certain elements) which could lead to a very expensive downfall.

This information I have put together is in no way a suggested guarantee to success, but more of an introduction to the world of corals hopefully presented in a way that will give beginner aquarists a chance to ease their way into further research by breaking down the information into the various groups of species, beginning with the more user friendly varieties. I have gathered much of it from internet sites such as www.liveaquaria.com , as well as books in which I have done much personal research in order to simplify the overwhelming amount of information that usually goes hand in hand with fish keeping.

Written by: Josee Campbell (aka JC)

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All photos courtesy of Chris