Quick Stats
Scientific Name: Dimidiochromis Compressiceps
Distribution: Lake Malawi, upper Shire River and Lake Malombe, also found in Mozambique, Tanzania
Size: 10 to 12" (females generally smaller)
Common Names: Malawi Eyebiter
Temperature: 75 to 80 degrees/23-28c
pH: 8-8.5
General Characteristics
These strange looking predators are one of my absolute favourite fish and I know I'm not alone in this. Their fascinatingly odd features, including a jaw that is nearly one third of its body length, combined with a metallic sheen to their scales make Eyebiters a real show-stopper.
Malawi Eyebiters are generally characterised as Ukata, open-water dwelling fish, rather than Mbuna, rock-dwelling cichlids from Lake Malawi. They are highly predatory, spending most of their time patrolling their surroundings looking for their next meal in a manner similar to many larger, South American cichlids. They are a long-bodied, lean fish, well designed for their habitat and hunting style and are extremely fast. Although considered to be omnivorous, smaller fish make up a large portion of their diet in the wild, so they are not suitable for community tanks. In general, these fish are a whitish silver colour with a single brown stripe running horizontally along their body. Sexually mature males, however, show the spectacular metallic blue coloration that most people associate with this fish. Males also show bright red to orange coloration on their anal fin, often accompanied by egg-spots.
Aquarium Set Up
Given the size Eyebiters grow to and their preference for continual tank-patrolling, these fish require a fair amount of space. 55 gallons would be the minimum for a pair, although having only a pair is not recommended, and larger tanks, 100 gallons and over, for a group. As with most cichlids from this region of Africa, Eyebiters are polygamous, and groups of several females and one male are the best way to go as males can get somewhat aggressive at spawning time. Their natural habitat is the open areas around the edges of the lakes and rivers they inhabit, and tanks should be set up in a similar manner. Large, flat rocks are required for spawning, but these fish prefer large, open spaces as they spend a lot of time stalking around their tank, looking for the next meal. As mentioned before, these fish are highly predatory, and cannot be considered safe around small fish. In the wild, they tend to prey on the fry and juvenile fish of Pseudotropheus and Aulonocara species that inhabit the same open areas. Tank mates should be chosen with caution, generally from the other large Ukata's and species such as Tilapia that are large enough not to be considered dinner and not large as to consider you Eyebiters as a small snack. Mbuna are generally considered too small to be tankmates for Eyebiters. These cichlids are not big diggers, so plants, either real or fake, are relatively safe. A fine gravel or sand substrate is ideal. As with all cichlids from Africa, Eyebiters require a higher ph and overall hardness level than South American cichlids, with the ideal ph being around 8 to 8.5. This should be taken into account when setting up the tank, especially if your water will require buffering to stay at a suitable ph.
Feeding
Although in the wild a large portion of Malawi Eyebiters diet consists of small fish, feeders are not necessary in an aquarium situation. They do require a high protein diet, consisting of good quality pellets combined with live food such as insects, bloodworms and shrimp. They do require some vegetable matter in their diet, and for this reason, a homemade food is often the next way to go. Beefheart combined with shellfish, shrimp, green vegetables and vitamins would be the best combination to keep your Eyebiters in the best conditions. Brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are good for building juvenile condition, but given the size of the mouths on these fish, they will soon graduate to larger foods.
Compatibility
Although in the wild a large portion of Malawi Eyebiters diet consists of small fish, feeders are not necessary in an aquarium situation. They do require a high protein diet, consisting of good quality pellets combined with live food such as insects, bloodworms and shrimp. They do require some vegetable matter in their diet, and for this reason, a homemade food is often the next way to go. Beefheart combined with shellfish, shrimp, green vegetables and vitamins would be the best combination to keep your Eyebiters in the best conditions. Brine shrimp and mosquito larvae are good for building juvenile condition, but given the size of the mouths on these fish, they will soon graduate to larger foods.
Breeding
Eyebiters are maternal mouthbrooders, like most other African cichlids. Eggs are laid on a flat piece of rock, then taken into the females mouth until they hatch. The fry are spat approximately 21 days later. Given the enormous size of their mouths, Eyebiters can brood up to 250 fry in a single spawning. Eyebiters are known to be a little twitchy when it comes to brooding and they will often spit their fry early if put under enough stress, such as being netted. It has been noted by some people that they prefer to lay on a piece of rock that is closer to the surface, but this is not always the case.